Chanel:新設計師Virginie Viard接任十分順利 無意開發電商市場
法國奢侈品牌Chanel首席財務官Philippe Blondiaux接受英國《金融時報》訪問時稱,預期新冠疫情將導致今年收入及純利大幅倒退,未來18至24個月就奢侈品行業而言將屬艱難時期。
由富商Wertheimer家族私人持有的Chanel,旗下417家門店中約85%已重開,但由於隔離措施,部分美國、俄羅斯及拉美的分店仍然關閉。
以可比基礎計,去年Chanel收入增幅加快至13%,升至123億美元;經營溢利升16.6%至35億美元。據Bernstein估算,Chanel以收入計屬全球第二大奢侈品牌,僅次於LVMH集團旗下Louis Vuitton去年的129億美元,並高於開雲集團的107億美元。
Blondiaux稱,成衣銷售去年增長28%。去年Chanel傳奇設計師「老佛爺」Karl Lagerfeld離世,他表示,新設計師Virginie Viard的接任十分順利;補充Virginie與老佛爺合作數十年,認識Chanel每個設計細節。她在集團產品系列逐漸加強個人色彩,未見對客戶基礎有任何影響。
疫情下匯豐預期今年奢侈品銷售將收縮17%,Bain料收縮最多35%。市場預期屆2022或2023年才可以恢復去年行業高達2,810億歐元的銷售。
Blondiaux補充,Chanel無計劃在策略或零售據點上作大幅修改,以迎合新零售市道。在衣服、手袋及手表產品方面,亦無打算仿傚同業Gucci及Louis Vuitton開發電商市場;不過,Chanel有在官網及中國天貓線上銷售香水及美容產品,並指線上收入在4月至5月上升100%。
Blondiaux認為,產品顧問與客戶之間的面對面接觸仍是奢侈品牌的核心。Chanel亦不會因封城而減價清理庫存,有異於市場預期。他稱,在相對早期已與供應商調節訂單,不預期會遇到問題。而在Chanel哲學中,從來沒有大減價或銷毀庫存這回事。他更指,在4月部分產品加價4%至15%,以確保在不同地區產品價格一致。
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